Usage of different marine bioactive compounds for cosmetic purpose

In this study, it was aimed to evaluate by-products obtained from different seafood as higher value added products as cosmetic cream raw materials. For this purpose, collagen from mullet (Chelon aurata) scale, chitosan from blue crab (Callinectes sapidus) shell, lipid from microalgae (Schizochytrium sp.) was produced. At first in the raw and produced materials, nutritional composition analysis were carried out. Then for collagen; denaturation temperature, amino acid, SDS–PAGE, histamine analysis, for chitosan; molecular weight, water and oil holding capacity, for lipid; fatty acid composition, peroxide value and free fatty acid analysis, common for collagen and chitosan; analysis such as yield, pH, solubility, color, viscosity, SEM, EDS, FTIR, TGA, for all collagen, chitosan and lipid; antioxidant and antimicrobial activity and heavy metal analysis were performed. 8 groups of cosmetic creams were produced from collagen, chitosan and lipid alone or with their combinations were investigated in terms of physical (pH, color, viscosity, stability), chemical (antioxidant activity and heavy metal), sensory and microbiological (total viable count, yeast and mold, total coliform, E. coli, S. aureus). pH, color, viscosity measurements and microbiological analysis were carried out on the 30th day to follow the changes in creams. According to the results of the analysis; it has been determined that due to the produced collagen has α1 and α2 chains and denaturation temperature is 30ºC, it is suitable for biomedical applications as type I collagen. The highest amino acid content was determined as consist of arginine+threonine. The obtained collagen and chitosan were determined in similar properties with commercial products according to nutritional composition, solubility, water and oil holding capacity, color and characterization analysis such as FTIR, SEM, EDS, TGA. Characteristic functional groups that should be present in collagen and chitosan were observed with FTIR, also SEM images showed fibrous structures in collagen and flake structures in chitosan. The mass and atomic weights (%) of C, N, O determined in EDS were found to be quite similar to commercial products. Algae oil had shown a high DHA content and was found to be of good quality because of being below the limit values according to PV and FFA analysis. According to antimicrobial analysis, it was observed that chitosan and algae oil had an inhibitory effect on S. aureus and E. coli, and had no inhibitory effect against C. albicans, also collagen had no inhibitory effect against any studied microorganism group. It has been determined that 8 groups of creams containing collagen, chitosan and lipid were suitable for the skin in terms of pH values (4.70±0.02-5.37±0.01) and similar to creams on the market in terms of homogeneity and consistency. The viscosity values of the creams were in the range of 108666.7±2516.61-524333.3±1016.65 cP. According to the stability tests, it was observed that the creams were stable and no phase separation was observed in the centrifuge test, only cracks occurred in the algae oil (Y) and collagen+algae oil (Kl+Y) groups in the test made with the oven. As a result of sensory analysis, most cream groups were liked by the panelists, but it was concluded that the most liked group in terms of overall appearance, color, odor, brightness, stickiness, homogeneity, consistency, oiliness and general acceptance was the group collagen (Kl). Both creams and produced collagen, chitosan and lipid showed high antioxidant activity, also arsenic, mercury, cadmium, lead heavy metals, which presence in cosmetic products pose health risks were found below the limit values. It has been determined that there was no growing in microorganisms (total viable count, yeast and mold, total coliform, E. coli, S. aureus) both on production and on the 30th day. As a result of the study; collagen and chitosan from by-products (fish scale, crab shell), which arise from seafood in our region and are considered as waste materials, and also lipid from microalgae that has valuable oil, which are promising to be used in different industrial areas such as medical, cosmetics and food and with these collagen, chitosan and lipid substances, cosmetics cream which in accordance with the regulations in terms of physical, chemical and microbiological characteristics, similar to the products on the market and satisfy the consumer acceptance were produced.