Relief effects achieved by tension differences and desing dimensions in compound wovens

Woven fabrics are obtained by the intersection of warp and weft yarns. These intersections create strengthening, consolidation, weighting, different texture and surface effects in compound structures developed on simple woven weaves with increased yarn systems, as well as providing volume / relief effects with some special applications. The general purpose of this research is to explain the pleat and pique weavings, which are obtained with tension differences between compound weaving techniques, with technical drawings, and to obtain different surface appearances with new trial studies in terms of pattern, color, texture and aesthetics in addition to document the technical information on the factors affecting the relief structures as a result of applied studies. Fancy yarns were also used in order to increase the relief effect in the experimental studies carried out in line with the determined themes. Current topics for experimental weaving applications with pleat and pique techniques were researched and sources of inspiration were selected, two different themes were determined as a result of sketch and sample fabric trials, and 4 (8 in total) weaving surfaces were created in line with these themes. The "Nature Made" theme for the pleat weaving design and the "Human Made/Contaminant" theme for the pique weaving designs were determined. Weaving knitting, drawing-in and dobby plans of pleat and pique weaving designs were studied in Excel program. While creating the pleat weaving designs, different measures were used in the widths of the pleats, and effects suitable for the theme were created on the fabric surface with fancy yarns. While creating pique weaving designs, voluminous pique structures were examined by making pattern and yarn researches, 9 sample fabrics were pre-tested and the most suitable patterns and yarns for the textured, fluffy effect, which is the characteristic of pique woven fabric, were determined and pique woven fabric design was made. As a result of the research, it was determined that the relief effect on the fabric surface changes when the woven knit structures, yarn diversity and pleat widths are different in the pile weaving design. In pique weaving designs, on the other hand, since the connection occurs on the same warp in motifs with vertical straight lines, the filling thread appears on the fabric surface although it is the same color as the ground threads; When diagonal shifts are created, it has been determined that full connections are obtained, giving a voluminous, textured and tougher structure.The voluminous and colorful surface appearances of the pleated and pique woven fabrics are dressed in outerwear clothes such as jackets and coats in Adobe Photoshop and Adobe Illustrator program.