A chronological research on the change of dress forms in the 20th century women's fashion

In the study, which aims to chronologically examine the change process of women's dress forms in the 20th century, when there were important developments in fashion; Within the scope of the research, domestic and foreign, printed and online resources were scanned, and photographs of women's clothing belonging to the century-old period between 1900 and 2000 were reached from the official website of Vogue magazine. Until 1978, one dress image was chosen from the March and August issues of Vogue magazine, but as the number of monthly prints of the magazine decreased over time, the visual samples between 1978 and 2000 were reduced to one. Thus, until 1978, the 10-year period was classified to be represented by 20 clothing images, while the classification was completed with one clothing image for the last 22 years and 178 clothing images constituted the material of the research. Formal drawings of the silhouette, collar and sleeve forms of the women's clothing images of the periods in question were made, and the design features and the change process were tried to be explained with the dominant features of the period by associating it with the artistic, cultural and economic structure of the period. In this study, the dress selected from women's clothing and examined in order to examine its forms, is a type of clothing traditionally worn by women and hangs over the legs while covering the body, but also includes a skirt of any length, sometimes consisting of one or two pieces, which is preferred for formal or casual and different styles. It can be said that it is a clothing product that can be shaped with sewing techniques. In the chronological evaluation of the clothes, 8 silhouette forms to be used in the research were determined among a wide variety of silhouette forms, and the basic sleeve and collar forms in the field literature and long, short and three-quarter sleeve length were taken into account. In the 20th century, dress forms were compared with ten-year periods; It has been concluded that the H silhouette was used dominantly in a hundred-year period. In the 1940s and 1950s, the Hourglass silhouette was seen with its more elegant and feminine appearance, while the S and X silhouettes represented a more specific form, reflecting only their own periods, and showed itself dominantly in the 1900s and 1950s. A and V silhouettes, on the other hand, blended into the time periods in the prepared tables and became the forms that remained in the background a little more. It has been concluded that the most preferred sleeve form is the long postiche sleeve, while the ribbed collar, which is mostly shaped over the body, has been used in the century. With the change of balances from periodical political events, the progress of industry and technology, industrialization and the competitive environments caused by them, fashion was affected a lot and the clothing items of the parties took place in fashion trends at a sudden speed during the wars, sometimes with micro and sometimes macro trends, the dress forms of fashion were transformed into silhouettes. It has been seen that it is shaped with collar, sleeve and ornament details and renews itself from time to time.