Doğal antı̇oksı̇dan ı̇çeren lı̇pı̇d bazlı taşıyıcı sı̇stemı̇n karakterı̇zasyon çalışmaları

Antioxidants are well familiar in conversations or discussions that include topics such as aging and healthy skin, especially in the fields that concern cosmetics industries. Antioxidants are proven to diminish free radical concentration in the body by different types of mechanisms. Free radicals are considered the cause of many diseases and conditions and skin aging included. Antioxidants, Phenols, and flavonoids all showed great effectiveness through depleting ROS (Reactive oxidative stress) levels and scavenging free radical molecules, natural antioxidants have a tendency of being unstable, these instabilities might affect their penetration through the stratum corneum or generally total antioxidant activities. This research aimed to encapsulate natural antioxidants extracted from the fruit commonly named Indian gooseberry or latinly named Emblica officinalis from the family of Euphorbiaceae into small phospholipid nanocarriers. It's believed that liposomes will not only provide assistance for antioxidant transportation through the skin but also it will have enhanced bioavailability and stability. In the research, the final cosmetic formulation was chosen as hydrogel (Carbopol 934) due to controlled release and enhancing the stability of the liposomal formulation. Four different methods (DPPH, ABTS, FRAP, and CUPRAC) for measuring the total antioxidant amount of the extract and formulations were evaluated. The results showed that approximately 43% of total antioxidants are in 1 mg of extract. Moreover, phenols and flavonoids showed 12% of total phenols per 1 mg of extract. Design-Expert® was used to obtain the liposomal optimal formulation. Liposomes were characterized by zeta potential, particle size, and polydispersity index. All the samples' particle sizes were shown to be <108 nm and zeta potentials were shown all to be negative and the polydispersity index was presented to be less than 0.3 indicating monomodal size. The optimal formulation 13 contained 1.8% of soybean and 0.07% of cholesterol. FTIR, SEM, and rheological studies were done for further evaluation and analysis. In vitro and ex vivo comparison studies between loaded liposomes with gel formulation and Emblica officinalis extract only with gel formulation were done using Franz cell diffusion method. In vitro results showed 42.28% cumulative drug release for samples that were incorporated with liposomes which is 23.44% more than samples that were not. On the other hand, ex vivo results were considered lower but nonetheless satisfactory where samples that were incorporated with liposomes showed 21% cumulative drug release which was a 6% difference for samples that were not.