Three dimensional aspects of woven elastic fabrics

Woven textile design is a discipline in which physical, intuitive and creativity methods are considered during conceptualization, sketching and weaving applications. The reflective practitioner method has been selected for the design and practice of the thesis research since it aims to raise the creativity level in weaving design and to create 3 dimensional effects on fabric surface by using elastic yarns. The reflective practitioner method also allows the designer to make decisions in the execution of the experiments guided by intuition.In this context, the elasthane fiber and elastic yarns have been investigated to create 3 dimensional effects on the fabric surface. Elasthane creates 3 dimensional effects on the fabric surface such as crinkle, voluminous and relief in conjunction with the fabric structure including such physical properties as keeping garment shape, fitting the body and enhancing freedom of movement.Woven fabrics are formed by the interlacement of weft and warp yarns, and they are naturally 3 dimensional in length breadth and depth. The long interlacements of weft and warp yarns in weaves such honeycomb, leno and cord show three dimensionality with the help of light and shadow on the fabric surface.In the scope of the thesis research, the three dimensional effects were initially studied in different weaves and structures by using elastic yarns in experimental pieces and the major designs were based on these experiments. In the design process the concept had been developed and sketches had been drawn. Diverse creative methods were utilized including: analogy, synthesis, and the convergence of different techniques and forms, while drawing the sketches and weaving. The elastic yarn type and warp color were set during the conversion of sketches to fabric forms through weaving with the focus on three dimensional effects. In the applications, the decisions for weaves, structures and weft yarn colors were made in an ongoing and reflective way. In this study, 5 fabric pieces have been woven on hand jacquard loom and 6 pieces have been woven on sample dobby loom.The 3 dimensionality extent has been increased in the applications woven on jacquard loom since the jacquard loom enable to work with wide patterns.Weaving pictorial images by using elastic yarns into fabrics which have 3 dimensional effects on their surface brings out the concept, flexible fabrics in texture and pattern when stretched out.