Use of open-end rotor yarns containing elastane in denim fabrics

Yarn, which is a crucial raw material in the textile industry, may have limited physical properties when produced as a single-ply. Moreover, in line with the evolving and developing final product requirements, additional physical properties are expected from single-ply yarns. As a result, twisting and doubling processes have become a widely used method to enhance the physical properties of yarn. Today, the most commonly used twisting method is the two-for-one (TFO) twisting technique. Although less known, hamel twisting (Elasto Twist) method is another applied technique. Different production methods have been developed for elastane-containing yarns and fabrics that have emerged to meet the increasing demand for more comfortable and functional textile products. In this study, Ne 20/2 + 78 dtex elastane rotor yarns were produced using the two-for-one and hamel twisting systems with different production parameters (twist multiplier, elastane draft, twist direction). Additionally, as a reference, Ne 10/1 + 78 dtex elastane ring core-spun yarn, which is frequently used in the denim industry, was produced. The produced yarns were tested for strength, elongation, evenness, yarn faults, and hairiness, and the obtained data were analyzed. Denim fabrics with a 3/1 Z twill weave were produced using the yarns as the weft. These fabrics were then subjected to width, elasticity, tensile strength, tear strength, weight, shrinkage, and growth tests, and the results were evaluated. The findings revealed significant differences in yarn and fabric properties depending on the production method and production parameters used. Keywords: Open end-rotor, two for one, hamel, core spun, denim