Study of underwear samples in XIX. and XX. centuries, Şadiye Ulusoy and Cüneyt Ayral collections

Turkish clothing continued to be traditionally understood in terms of cutting characteristics for centuries, and from the 17th century on parallel with the effects from the west, it started to be affected in terms of processing techniques and some decorative features (Görünür, 2010: 17). With this period entered into the period of westernization with the Tanzimat and the Constitutional Monarchy, there has been an observable change in clothing. The increase in the use of foreign goods in the Ottoman Empire depends on the commercialization of trade with European states, the introduction of imported goods, the start of foreign capital investments, the opening of railways and the revolutionary development of access to stabilized road links. The most important factor in the spread of the European style is that all the materials needed to sew these clothes are supplied from abroad. In Beyoğlu there were shops and tailor workshops belonging to non-Muslims. "Fabrics, mortars, gloves, umbrellas, accessories, socks and underwear that are imported from Europe are sold in these stores" (Görünür, 2010: 27). After the constitutional monarchy and the republic period, many magazines and newspaper publications were published for women. In these publications there are writings such as how European women are dressed, underwear ads. In the last quarter of the nineteenth century, palace women who ordered Paris in the center of fashion with completely Western features ordered the terracotta on model pages from Paris (Özer, 2009: 337). A life style unique to Europe in the Ottoman and Republican Turkey was presented to the Turkish woman in this way. Traditional underwear has left European-style underwear especially in and around Istanbul. It was aimed to remove the inventories of Şadiye Ulusoy and Cüneyt Ayral collections which consist of hundreds of pieces belonging to the 19th and 20th centuries in total and to determine the characteristics of these turnovers.