Dyeing of woolen textile samples and experimental study of dyeing quality

Most of the companies that produce textile dyes and materials tend to synthetic dyes because of their ready availability and cost advantages. However, the toxic nature of synthetic dye applications has become a major concern for the environment. A potential "Green chemistry" option, environmentally friendly, healthy, non-toxic, renewable and sustainable, bio-sourced natural dyes have begun to gain popularity again as an alternative / addition to synthetic dyes. In this study ; it was aimed to investigate the dyeing quality of woolen textile samples with the use of natural dye and the effect of the force applied per unit area in the fabrics on dye adsorption and also to find that renewable biomordants could be an alternative to widely used metallic mordants by comparing biomordant with metallic mordants. For this purpose, 100% knitted wool and 43/53/4 wool /PES /lycra woven fabrics were subjected to dyeing process, using metallic mordants (alum and copper sulphate) and biomordant (Rosemary) as mordant, in three different dyestuff concentrations (%2-6-10) with henna, without stress and under two different stresses (1.25 and 2.5 N /cm for 100% knitted wool fabric and 2 and 4 N /cm for wool / PES / lycra woven fabric). In the study, Box-Behnken Designs was used and the obtained color strength (K / S), wash, light and rub fastness values were evaluated statistically. SEM and FTIR analyzes were performed for the characterization of dyed fabrics. It was observed that color strength increased in both fabric types, but color fastness did not increase significantly with increasing dyestuff concentration. The best color values were obtained in the metallic mordant Alum, but also concluded that the biomordant, Rosemary, can be an alternative to the metallic mordant, Copper sulphate. In both fabric types, it has been observed that the force applied per unit area has a positive effect on the color strength values within certain value and there are no significant changes in the color fastness due to the stress. According to Box-Behnken Experimental Design; there is a good correlation between the experimental results and the estimated results for woolen fabrics and wool /PES/lycra fabrics, whereas color strength values. Keywords: Natural Dye, Henna, Metallic Mordant, Alum, Copper Sulphate, Biomordant, Rosemary, Wool, Wool / Polyester, Stress