Determination of body-clothing pattern fit problems in men's jacket and pattern proposal

An important component of men?s formal clothing, the classic jacket which holds a significant position in the ready-made clothing is being used by a substantially large section of the population. Jacket limits some movements of the body due to its function of displaying fitness. Jackets need to be designed appropriately for the body and movement limits in order to be less limiting, comfortable, for longer personal daily wear and increased efficiency.The purpose of the research is to identify points of attention in the selection of clothing by males living in Turkey, classic jacket model preferred, difficulties experienced in terms of body-fit and movement in jackets manufactured with current pattern systems, and to design classic male jacket pattern which ensures fit and movement comfort for males in Turkey who have body dimensions of 6Drop/Size 50.This is an ?Action Research? with the objective of analyzing information acquired by data collection tools and developing an appropriate classic jacket pattern for males living in Turkey. Research space is formed by formal Clothing using males living in Turkey and who have normal body characteristics. Research sample study-group consists of research partner company?s highest sales volume clothing store clients who most frequently use formal Clothing and reside in capital city Ankara where bureaucrats and government employees are concentrated, and who have 6 Drop/Size 50. A survey form consisting of two sections and including 23 questions has been used to identify their preferred classic jacket model, points of concern in selecting Clothing and their demographic characteristics. The resolution of quantitative research data obtained through survey and observation forms have been done by frequency( f ), percentage value(%) and arithmetic mean(), and Cronbach?s Alpha Test has been applied for reliability analysis.In order to determine the classic jacket appropriate for bodies and movement comfort of males living in Turkey, men?s jacket patterns prepared by the Muller, Metric and Optikon mold systems, as well as male jacket patterns and dimensions developed by the Istanbul Textile and Garment Exporters Union(İTKİB) have been investigated. Using these four different pattern systems, 6Drop/Size50 classic jacket patterns were produced and at the end of three trials a classic jacket pattern which provides body-fit and movement comfort was obtained. Patterns prepared in the first trial were worn by study-group participants and research data were collected through assessment with the assistance of observation forms. Analysis of the data collected was done through SPSS 14 software package. Upon evaluation of findings, it was determined that the pattern developed by İTKİB was more appropriate in comparison to others but some changes to it were required.On the İTKİB developed jacket pattern, some corrections were made in the light of research data and experimentation during production, and production was repeated. In order to determine the body-fit and movement comfort of the produced jacket, second trial was conducted with the help of repeat survey and observation form. At the conclusion of findings evaluation, it was established that this new jacket pattern was superior to the İTKİB developed pattern but some modifications were nevertheless deemed necessary.In the light of data and experimentation during production, necessary corrective action was taken on second trial jacket pattern, and the production was repeated. In order to determine body-fit and movement comfort, this jacket was used in the third trial jointly with the use of survey and observation forms. At the end of the assessment of findings it was established that this new jacket pattern was more appropriate and comfortable in terms of body-fit and movement for 6Drop/Size50 males living in Turkey.The drawing phases and templates of the proposed jacket pattern has been systematically put forward.