A research on the products needle-work made in Kocaeli province

SUMMARY It is assumed that needlework, a kind of stitchery having an outstanding position in our traditional handicrafts were, in accordance with the written sources, passed from Anatolia to Greece, and from there to Europe via Italy in the 12th Century. The samples of 2000 B.C. have still been implemented today with some different features in the number of regions of Anatolia. The materials of this study was consisted of samples obtained from the individuals dealing with needlework, in Gebze Sub prefecture of Kocaeli Province, and Tavşancıl and Hereke Towns, and of the information provided from these individuals. The purpose of this study includes the investigation on the varieties, tools, equipment, patterns, composition, colour and quality of needlework, in Kocaeli area, and of the traditional techniques and aesthetical features of the region, and on the fields of use, and the analysing and documenting the existing techniques. The information from these individuals dealing with needlework was collected through an inquiry. This inquiry was performed by using a tâte-à-tâte conversation by a researcher personally. In the area, 46 to 50 years-old women in general were dealing with needlework. This group was followed by other groups who were 51 to 70, and even over 70 years old, and the group over medium age are usually dealing with needlework has gradually been decreasing. The education level of these individuals was of primary school. The higher the education level the lower the number of individuals dealing with this handicraft. No single individual was come across within the area. All individuals dealing with needlework were women, and they were usually doing the same in their leisure times. Also the techniques for embroidery, weaving and knitting are being applied within the area. It was determined that the individuals dealing with needlework were used to learn this craft at the age of 10 to 18 smaller the age within the area shorten the learning period. In general the reason of dealing with needlework is to prepare the bride's dowry, and to provide earnings. Thin and long needles are preferred within the area. Auxiliary tool are the crochet-needle and the shuttle. The lace and nylon threads are being used extensively within the region. It was determined that the silk threads and lace threads were used in the crafts produced 25 to 30 years ago. This situation shows that the silk threads were replaced by the nylon ones today. Primarily, the threads which are preferred within the area are the strong, uniform and thin threads. The threads with six plies in lace thread, and the threads with two or three plies in the nylon threads are being preferred. In the area, the basic technique used in needlework is the triangle-and square knots. The products are made by holding the edge of the cloth, and by starting on a chain stitch or "trabzan" or "zürefa".. The direction of stitchery is from right to the left. The motifs used within the area are from extensively floral, geometrical, and symbolic designs. The material motifs are rare. Various names are given to the motifs through forging. The composition of "ulama" kind are used in needlework within the area. These kinds of composition consist of simple designs. The edge is generally taken as a basis if composition features are investigated, but independent composition is preferred for table cloths and bed covers. The white colour is extensively used in these crafts. The individuals dealing with needlework apply the hardening process only for the furnishings, and they clean their products with warm soapy water by hand, and keep them in bundles or wooden boxes. It was determined that the individuals working upon orders, are marketing their products at home, and meet their own needs through this income. This handicraft is not assessed as for tourism purposes yet within the area but if it is supported by some associations or institutions, more income and the promotion of the region would have been provided for these individuals. Thus, surviving of needlework which is one of the most sensitive kinds of our traditional handicrafts, and transferring it to the next generations shall have been provided.