Wetting and wicking behaviour of fabrics and clothing comfort

The aim of this dissertation is to determine the effects of various fabric and garment properties on heat and water vapour/liquid transfer properties of shirting fabrics with three different raw materials, weave types and weft densities, underwear fabrics made from three different raw materials, fabric combinations, and garment combinations that are composed of shirts and underwear sewn from these fabrics. In line with this purpose, heat and water vapour/liquid transfer properties were measured first for the single layer fabrics, and then for the selected underwear-shirting fabric combinations and the garment combinations, and the findings were assessed by statistical methods. As a result of comprehensive experimental study and assessments conducted by using the shirting fabrics (cotton, cotton/polyester and regenerated bamboo) and the underwear fabrics (cotton, polyester, cotton/polyester), it was observed that combinations with the polyester underwear and the cotton/polyester shirting fabrics, twill weave type and loose weft density come into prominence as the raw material and fabric structure in terms of thermophysiological comfort because of the fact that they have lower cooling rate at the sudatory exposure, lower condensation and lower drying time as compared to others. Thermal manikin tests conducted for the garment combinations reveals that the properties of shirting fabric have an effect on heat and water vapour transfer when fabric directly touches with skin. However, the underwear properties are more important than those of shirt on heat and moisture vapour transfer of layered clothing. It is demonstrated that garment fit of underwear affects both thermal resistance and evaporative heat loss; whilst raw material of underwear has only significant effect on evaporative heat loss of the garment combinations. When all the findings are considered, it is possible to say that air gap thickness/size between garment layers have greater effect on heat and water vapour transfer properties than weave type and weft density of fabrics. It is thought that the obtained results will contribute to garment designers to improve advantageous combinations of shirt and underwear in terms of thermophysiological comfort.