Evaluation of body fit in different men's trouser patterns and development of a new pattern

In the ready-to-wear clothing sector, garment fit is directly related to the accuracy of pattern-making systems and application methods. Garment patterns determine not only the producibility of clothing but also significantly influence functionality, aesthetic appearance, and user comfort. In this context, each country's, company's, or practitioner's development of their unique pattern-making systems complicates establishing standardized fitting criteria. This complexity is particularly evident in lower body garments like trousers, where individual anatomical differences make creating well-fitting patterns challenging. In this study, four different trouser pattern-making systems widely used in practice were comparatively analyzed: the German-origin Müller System, the Turkish-origin Mercan System, the traditional Tailoring System, and a specialized Company System. The research maintained a consistent measurement standard across all systems, specifically the size 50 with a 6 drop measurement set, allowing for an objective assessment of technical and structural differences among patterns. The primary aim was to comparatively analyze these systems' effects on trouser fit and develop a new pattern model that includes the variables yielding the highest fit. A mixed-method approach was adopted in the research, utilizing both qualitative and quantitative data. Trousers from each pattern system were produced with identical fabric by the same manufacturer to minimize external variables stemming from production processes. The manufactured trousers were evaluated by a total of 15 experts divided into three groups: academics, tailors, and industry representatives, on a male mannequin within the size 50 measurement range. Experts assessed the fit levels using a developed trouser fit scale. Statistical analyses, including the Wilcoxon Signed-Rank Test, Kruskal-Wallis Test, Eta Squared Effect Analysis, and One-Sample t-Test, were applied to expert evaluations. A new trouser pattern was developed based on the analysis results, and this newly developed pattern underwent further expert evaluation and analysis. Results from the developed pattern were compared with existing system patterns through pre-test and post-test evaluations. The study findings revealed that trousers produced from the developed pattern achieved a 100% "appropriate" rating by experts for waist, thigh, hem circumference, front waist position, back waist position, back crease line, pocket length, pocket width, back dart length, and back dart position variables, reflecting complete consensus among experts. Additionally, the knee circumference, front rise, front crease line, and side seam variables were rated "appropriate" at 93.3%, while hip and back rise variables received an 86.7% "appropriate" rating, indicating strong expert agreement. Significant improvements were noted for the trouser length variable, with 53% of experts assessing it as "appropriate." Despite shortening the trouser length based on initial feedback, further refinement was suggested, albeit to a lesser extent. In conclusion, this research demonstrates that through analytical comparison of different pattern systems, it is possible to overcome existing limitations and achieve a trouser pattern design with superior body fit. The developed model serves as a practical example contributing directly to both academic research on pattern making and industry practices.