A study of the effects of structural parameters of worsted fabrics on skewness and selvedge waviness

Several studies on general structural properties and behavior of woven fabrics are in agreement that similar findings and characteristic features exist. In this thesis, the structural behavior of woven fabrics and relations between basic fabric parameters are discussed with reference to worsted fabrics. The work in the thesis was carried out in a close cooperation with one of the world's leading wool fabric manufacturers, Yünsa. Therefore, analysis of typical industrial problems of weft skewness and of waviness of fabric edges were included into the scope of the thesis, in addition to the analysis of structural properties on the basis of general theoretical approaches. The resultant problems of skewness due to the increasing demand of plaid and line effects in worsted woven fabrics because of fashion trends has generated a need for a detailed study in regard of the Yunsa, in particular. On the other hand, the fact that the studies on the waviness and skewness of woven fabrics are very limited in quantity and has almost no experimental content and data, imposed the decision of studying on these issues. One of the important outcomes of the thesis is the development of a woven fabric waviness measurement method and the design of a waviness measurement scale, which does not exist nor mentioned in the literature. In addition to these topics, an analysis of the relationship between crimp interchange behavior and Poisson's ratio on worsted fabrics were also included in this thesis. It was shown that there is a high positive correlation between the crimp values with the extent of cripm interchange and the Poisson's ratio. The findings are consistent with the results of the previous study. In skewness, it was clearly seen in the studies that the suitable matching of ground weave and edge weave is important. Within the scope of the thesis, considerable economic and sectoral benefits were also achieved in regard of Turkish wool textile industry.