Using organogelators as a delivery vehi̇cle for anti- skin aging bi̇oacti̇ve compounds

The term cosmeceutical was created over 25 years ago to define products with active substances that cannot be considered cosmetics or drugs. Cosmeceuticals are increasingly popular, with sales representing one of the largest growing segments of the skin care market. These products are found in many forms, including vitamins, peptides, growth factors, and botanical extracts. Cosmeceuticals that contain topically applied vitamins have an increasing role in skin care. Although many cosmeceutical formulations contain vitamin C and/or vitamin E, very few are actually effective in topical application. First because there is only a low concentration, second because the stability is compromised as soon as the product is opened and exposed to air and light, and third because the form of the molecule (an ester or a mixture of isomers) is not absorbed or metabolized effectively by the skin. However, when a stable formulation delivers a high concentration of the nonesterified, optimal isomer of the antioxidant, vitamins C and E do indeed inhibit the acute ultraviolet (UV) damage of erythema, sunburn, and tanning as well as chronic UV photoaging and skin cancer. Both are highly effective depigmenting agents. Topical vitamin C also increases collagen synthesis in both young and old fibroblasts. Because vitamin C regenerates oxidized vitamin E, the combination in a cosmeceutical formulation is synergistic – particularly in UV protection. Aminoalcohol based bis-(aminoalcohol) oxalamides (amino alcohol= isoleucinol, phenylalaninol, 2-amino-1-butanol respectively), a well-known for organic fluids whose properties have been reported in several papers, have been explored to develop depot systems and illustrated for novel dermal and topical cosmeceutical delivery vehicle for vitamine C and E. FAE (Faty acid ethyl and isopropyl esters) with different chain lenghts, ethyl laurate, ethyl myristate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, was chosen as biocompatible organic fluids which are used in cosmetic industry. These observations indicate that bis-(aminoalcohol)oxalamides gels as delivery vehicle for vitamine C and E cosmeceutical; as a skin protective anti aging and also show that the loading profiles for such systems can be fine-tuned by the correct choice of gelator-FAE combination. Keywords: Bis-aminoalcohol oxalamides, low molecular weight organogels, topical antioxidants, UV protection, vitamin C, vitamin E.