Evaluation of the fit of different men's shirt patterns to the body and development of new patterns

The size and the fit of the garment are interrelated, because the acceptability of the fit is greatly influenced by the size of the garment. Fit is one of the most important issues in clothing selection. The fit and mould problems of garments directly affect the aesthetic and functional properties of the garment. Since the human body has a wide variety of sizes and shapes, it is not possible for the mould drawing systems currently in use to be equally suitable for everyone. However, it is important to examine and evaluate the existing systems and to develop more adaptable moulds. In this study, four different men's shirt moulds, namely the German Müller system, which is widely used in the production of men's shirt moulds, and the local İTKİB system, the traditional tailor's mould and the mould used by a company, were examined comparatively. In the research, the size 50 measurements used by the company were kept constant for all the patterns and the formal differences resulting from the pattern drawing techniques of different systems were evaluated objectively and the fit to the body was evaluated subjectively by the experts. It is aimed to evaluate the fit of the shirts produced by using the patterns obtained in the study by the experts and to develop a new pattern model that is expected to provide a higher fit by using the variables that provide the highest fit within the results. In the research, a mixed method approach was adopted and both qualitative and quantitative data types were utilised. Each shirt pattern was sewn from the same fabric and by the same manufacturer following the same process, thus minimising the problems that may arise from production. The shirts were put on a male mannequin in a size range of 50 and evaluated by academicians, tailors and industry experts using the Men's Shirt Fit Evaluation Fit Scale. The data obtained as a result of the expert evaluations were statistically analysed and a new shirt pattern was developed in line with the results. Four test methods, Wilcoxon Signed Rank Test, Kruskal-Wallis test, Eta Square Effect Analysis and One Sample t Test, were used to analyse the data. The developed shirt pattern was also evaluated by the experts and the data obtained were analysed. As a result of the research, there are 6 items from the Company's pattern as shoulder steepness, front yoke location, front chest circumference, arm rotation, back waist circumference and shirt length; 4 items from the Tailor's pattern as front yoke shift, front width, biceps width and wrist width; A total of 22 variables including collar drop, shoulder, front hip circumference, armhole and side seam from Müller pattern, and 7 variables including collar circumference, front waist circumference, sleeve length, back width, back width, back hip circumference and robe height from İTKİB pattern were used in the drawing of the developed men's shirt pattern. As a result of the fit evaluation of the developed men's shirt by the experts, it was concluded that the variables of Collar circumference, Shoulder Width, Front width, Armhole, Biceps Width and Rear Hip Circumference were close to full fit, and all variables except these variables were found to be full fit. In conclusion, as a result of the comparison of men's shirts prepared with different pattern systems and expert evaluation results on the fit of the body, this study has revealed that the developed pattern is the one that provides the best fit to the body. This developed pattern constitutes an example that can directly contribute to both academic pattern researches and sectoral applications.