An examination of the factors affecting fabrics selection in garment design and new design ideas

This study aims to examine the factors affecting fabric selection in garment design by focusing on cotton-based woven shirting fabrics, conducting both experimental and design-oriented evaluations, and developing new design proposals. Fabric selection is not merely an aesthetic choice but also a critical decision process involving functionality, durability, cost-effectiveness, and production efficiency. Shirting fabrics were chosen as the focus of the research since they clearly reflect these parameters. Within the scope of the study, three women's shirt models were designed, a total of nine products were produced, and six cotton-based woven fabrics (two plain weaves, two twills, and two satins) were examined both experimentally and in terms of design. In the experimental phase, seam strength (ISO 13935-1, strip method) and seam slippage (ISO 13936-2, fixed extension method) tests were applied to the fabrics, and the numerical findings were evaluated in tables, with production consistency analyzed through coefficients of variation. The findings revealed that the structural properties of fabrics directly affect seam performance and design outcomes. Plain weave fabrics provided reliable results with high breaking strength and balanced performance. Twill fabrics offered advantages in formability and volume due to their higher elongation capacity, whereas satin fabrics, while visually sophisticated, exhibited limitations in seam performance due to slippage tendencies. In conclusion, this thesis demonstrates the strong interaction between fabric selection and design decisions, showing that weave type, yarn count, fabric weight, and yarn density play a critical role in the seam performance of shirting fabrics. Thus, the study serves as a guiding resource for designers, manufacturers, and researchers both technically and creatively, emphasizing that fabric selection is not only an aesthetic choice but also a strategic decision that extends product lifespan, ensures reliability, and supports sustainability against fast fashion practices.