XVI.- XVII. creation of three-dimensional textile designs using sustainable based yarns and weaving techniques of patterns used in 19th century Ottoman kaftans and investigation of structural and comfort properties of design textures

The aim is to develop innovative textile structures in the field of sustainable fashion and textiles, inspired by the tulip, pomegranate, and carnation motifs found in the kaftan patterns of the 16th and 17th Century Ottoman Empire. These motifs have been transformed into three-dimensional textile structures by means of contemporary textile technologies. Sustainability is utilization of environmentally sensitive fibers, which is the main focus of the study. In this context, both natural fibers and recycled fibers are used as raw materials. Within the study, the role of the designer is not only limited to producing aesthetic solutions; providing raw material-oriented sustainability is also aimed. Within the scope of the thesis study, 15 different fabrics, 6 different compositions, 13 colors and 5 different patterns were designed. All of the fabrics were inspired by Ottoman kaftan patterns but were reinterpreted with modernized motifs and colors. In fabric production, PET and r-PET were used for warp yarns and sustainable raw materials such as Polyviscose, Tencel, Rolefin, organic cotton, and bamboo and water swelling yarn were preferred for weft yarns. Water swelling hydrophilic Poliester yarns were used effectively in the formation of three-dimensional textural designs. Physical tests were performed on the produced fabrics and yarns. Yarn counts, yarn strength (cN/tex) and elongation (%) and twist (T/m) properties were analyzed. Following fabric production, tests including seam opening test, breaking strength (horizontal and vertical), breaking elongation (horizontal and vertical), rubbing and light fastness, abrasion resistance and air permeability were performed. The data obtained from these tests were used to evaluate the structural characterization, comfort and durability properties of the fabrics. As a result of the research, two unique garments were designed from the fabrics produced. The results of the research aim to shed light on future studies in the field of sustainable fashion and textiles, as well as being a source of inspiration for designers and companies that realize environmentally friendly production.